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Christmas in Spain
Like many other places in Europe, Christmas lights generally go up in Spain in December. Every town and city decorates the streets. Christmas markets also begin to appear, Christmas trees on sale everywhere and gypsies begin to sell trees on the streets. The first major sign of Christmas is the state-run Lottery, which is drawn on 22nd December. The “El Gordo” (the fat one) is one of the largest lotteries in the world and thousands of people win each year.
In general, Christmas in Spain is based more on a religious theme than in many other places. Churches are packed to capacity day and night.
For most Spaniards there are three main stages to Christmas, starting with Christmas Eve (nochebuena) that is very much a family affair. The evening generally starts at home but often ends up with a party in a hotel, club or disco with family and friends. It is very likely that every generation of the family will be represented.
The family Christmas Eve meal is one of the most important meals of the year for the Spanish family. Seafood is high on the list for the meal and prices tend to go through the roof this time of year. First on the menu is likely to be cold shellfish and cold cuts of meat. This may be followed by soup then baked besugo (Bream) with potatoes followed by roast lamb or suckling pig. Game is another option although turkey is becoming more popular. The meal is always complemented with Cava, Spain’s excellent sparkling wine. At the same time trays of Christmas cakes and sweets will be served. The important sweets are turrón and marzipan. Turrón is nougat made of toasted sweet almonds and has been made in Spain for over five centuries.
After the meal the adults will then exchange presents. The children will usually receive only a small gift. At midnight many people will go to Midnight Mass at the church. Others may stay at home and open a bottle of champagne to celebrate the birth of Christ. Some children may go carol singing whilst the youngsters will go to bed leaving the adults to party till dawn.
Every town and most churches will have a ‘Belen’, which is a nativity display. Some of these are very impressive, and some are animated and illuminated, drawing huge crowds.
Christmas Day is a fiesta so all banks and shops are closed, probably to recover from the night before. Christmas Day in Spain is probably one of the quietest of the year. Anyone wanting to eat out on this special day will most certainly have to book in advance.
New Year’s Eve is big in Spain and on New Year’s Eve it is the tradition to wear red underwear, (representing “Love”) but they have to be bought for you by somebody else. Most towns will have a street party with entertainment and firework displays that last all night. Most bars and restaurants are open for private parties only. There will be music and dancing and the wearing of usual party outfits. At the stroke of midnight it is the tradition to eat 12 grapes – one on each stroke of the clock - to bring good luck for the New Year.
Spain has many unique traditions, all of which are great fun. On the 5th January (Los Reyes) a special cake is made and sold all over Spain. Rosca de Reyes is a ring-shaped pastry (tasting similar to hot cross bun mixture), covered in sugar and fruit flavour jellies. On biting, beware; the cake may contain plastic toys as presents. Anyone lucky enough to find one of the hidden charms will be blessed with good luck for the New Year.
The next most important day is the 6th January or Three Kings (Los Reyes). This is the day that the Three Kings arrived in Bethlehem; it is also the most important day for the children as the Three Kings in effect replace Father Christmas children (although Santa is becoming popular). They arrive overnight on the 5th January where tons of sweets will be thrown from the passing floats, much to the joy of the children (and adults). The atmosphere is electric. On the morning of 6th January, the children open their gifts.
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